Freak Show

Today I put up a new hard line at the Freaks. The Freaks is an area near Erratica with good steep, volcanic rock. Many good lines have already been done by Frank Lucido, Noah Kaufman, and Jay Sell. Some of the classic problems include Twizzler v8, Wake and Bake v2, and Smoke and a Pancake v6. Among these lines the newest boulder is a 20ft horizontal roof on excellent quality volcanic rock which is abundantly featured. This roof is called the Basement. I did a great line going right through the middle of the roof on good holds really far apart. I called the line Freak Show v11. Very hard I thought. It will have a lower start that will likely add a couple of hard moves. There is also another project starting this line or lower that will go rightward through intense shouldery moves. It will be cool to see what else will come from this unique area. Usually volcanic is rather chossy but this place is an exception. I'd recommend a visit, though it is still semi-secret so good luck on finding an open door. Tahoe feels like it is cooling off a little for the weekend so I'm excited to see some more good climbing.

F.A. of Freak Show v11

Can't Beat the Heat

Here in Tahoe it has been very hot. Not compared to the areas in the valley but pretty hot for us locals. However, developement is still going on at a crazy pace as new areas keep being found and the list of projects waiting to go keeps getting longer. The Burnside area is very concentrated with good rock and problems of all grades. A new area very close to Erratica has been found with good volcanic rock and steep problems, one of which is a 20 ft horizontal roof called the Basement. Recently I also went back to one of my biggest aspirations, the angora project, this 40 ft steep highball over deep water is one of the best climbs on a hot day. The project is a 10 move undercling traverse to a steep prow with thrutchy moves that lead to a big dyno to a rail , followed by a hard top out into a sparsely featured slab. When this goes it will be one of tahoe's hardest and most unique lines around. It is so hard to concentrate on one thing though when there's so much new stuff being found constantly.


the angora project

Return from the Dark Continent

Good times with my peeps
Me, Ian and Simon chasing each other on Up the Spout v4

Fragile Steps v13

My new favorite problem in the world The Amphitheatre v12

I just got back from the Rocklands in South Africa. What an amazing place. So much good rock everywhere.. There's too much to tell. The water tastes like dirt, our rental car was a piece of shit, food and wine is very cheap, and people drive like they're on speed. It was awesome. I met a lot of really cool people that I will never forget. We pretty much climbed all day and got drunk all night. Such a fun routine. My 5 and half weeks there flew by in a flash. It rained more than I thought it would and my last week there I sprained my ankle really bad falling from the top of The Hatchling. I could not walk for like 2 days and it swelled up like a baloon. It was totally worth it though. What an amazing problem. I almost sent which is rad b/c it will be first on the list when I go back. I did do a lot of problems before that though. All of which were amazingly good. Here's my ticklist from the trip.

Girl On My Mind v5 ( incredibly fun)

Poison Dwarf v7

I'm Julie v7 (flash)

John Denver v7 (flash)

Secret To Olive's Preserve Cupboard v7 (2nd try)

Minkie v8 ( 2nd try)

Petite Hueco v8 (flash)

Maniac v8 (flash)

Dirty Lies v8 (2nd try)

Sunset Arete v9 ( 4th try)

Last Day in Paradise v10 ( 4th try)

No Late Tenders v10 ( 2nd try)

Shadows of Ourselves v10

Stargate v10

Caroline v10

Nutsa v12 ( 4th try)

The Amphitheatre v12

Fragile Steps v13 ( my first 8b; so psyched)

These were all the best lines that I did. I left a lot of lines behind but that's good b/c it left me itching to go back. I was very psyched to do my first v13. It was epic but fit my body and climbing style really well. Nice one Daniel; such rad holds. Other than the climbing it was cool to make so many new awesome friends and experience a new country that is very different from the US. I loved South Africa but it did make me realize how good we have it here in the states. I think though that I am now hooked on road tripping globally. I'm already making plans for another trip in Spring. Probably Europe most likely. Now I'm psyched to be home, heal my ankle, make a little money, and see some of the great new stuff that Noah and Frank are developing in the Burnside Lake area. Also I'm psyched to check out Way Lake again in Mammoth and get back on Chumscrubber. I'm glad that Nick and Jeff got the 2nd and 3rd ascent cause now all the pressure will be off. haaha I can just take my time and try to send.

Lastly I'd like to give a shout out to all my new friends and housemates: The Germans: Tom, Stephan and Axel keep on rocking. John and Amy you guys are awesome. The Housemates: Colin, Andy, Jarrad, Petra, Jesse Brown, Simon, Walker, Kevin, Yen, Iyunde, Ian, Ryan, and Eric. You guys kick ass, you are all great climber and great people. It was a pleasure hanging with you guys for 5 weeks and I look forward to see you all again at random somewhere by a bunch of rocks.

Bon Voyage!!

Well, I am off to the Rocklands in South Africa. Supposedly the best bouldering in the world. I've been wondering what it's like for years and I'll finally get to see for myself. As you can tell from the picture I've made sure to pack the bare essentials. I've heard that in addition to great bouldering there are cobras, leopards, and thieving baboons. This sounds like it will be a truely unique stage for climbing. I'm going to try this one last project here at home before I leave. I will be travelling for a couple of days just getting there and I don't like sitting still for that long. So hopefully I will get all this energy out of my system before total jetlag sets in. I wanted to say thanks to Brooke and Buck for all the hook ups and also thanks to Noah for getting me to sack up and go to the best bouldering on earth. If I get internet I'll keep up on my emails and this blog but if not I'll see you in 6 weeks ....unless I become lion food...keep your fingers crossed.

Invasion of the Bishop Crew

Ian cruising the 6th ascent of Hate Handles v10

Hacky sack central. Good Times

Kenyan Smith going full throttle on Maple Cabin Syrup v8

Cotter Brown doing the 3rd ascent of American Gladiator v8

This past 3 day weekend the Bishop crew came to pay the south shore boulders a visit and kicked some serious ass. A lot of hard problems saw multiple ascents. At the Hate Handles area the mega classic dyno itself saw three ascents. Zack West was the first, busting out the 4th ascent in just about a half hour. Record time for this problem. Gaining momentum from Zack, Nate was next to get the fifth ascent and, noteably, his first v10. Nate was so excited he decide to even chuck a 2nd lap on this classic move. Two days later Ian Cotter Brown came back for revenge and out of nowhere unlocked the ninja move with ease. The rest of the crew came really close. Josh Vale and Kenyan Smith will be back for vengence when the temps get better. The classic v7 CryBaby saw 2 flashes from Zack and Josh. Josh Vale and Frank Lucido also got the 3rd and 4th ascent of Touch Your Toes v6/7.

The next day we went to the Twin Peaks area where the heat was just too much for this good but very exposed winter spot. This did not stop Ian from crushing the 3rd ascent of American Gladiator v8 even though it was in the sun. The heat soon squashed the group's enthusiasm, but not for long. For once the hacky sack came out it was on like donkey kong. Several hacks were done in this 7 person circle. The energy was similar to that of drunken football fans watching there home team in the super bowl. I must say that this was the funnest part of the weekend. Positive energy and fun vibes were rife in the air.

The last day was hot and so we went to the very shady Cabin Fever Boulder where Ian did the 2nd ascent of Maple Cabin Syrup v8 and 3rd ascent of Log Cabin Syrup v7/8. Kenyan Smith hit all the moves quick on Maple. However, the heart-breaking finishing mantle stopped Kenyan a few times in the link and he had to settle for saving it for the next trip, but the send is definately imminant. Kenyan and the whole crew will return later on to rack up more points and continue their streak of making tahoe's hardest problems look like warm ups. Awesome job crew.

Land of the Lost

David O on Lost Horizon

David on Atomic Wedgie

Crux move of Tai Chi's link up project

This weekend we got a first rate tour of the new Nevada area Land of the Lost. Pretty neat spot. Very remote with lots of rock. The quality is very mixed. Anywhere from bullet rock to dried mud and everywhere in between. Frank Lucido, David O, Brenna and I were the crew. We had lots of pads which is good because most of the climbs are tall and adventurous with bad landings. The standout lines were Lost Horizon v3, Shangri La v3, Atomic Wedgie v7, Tai Chi v7, and the "project" which looked incredible. Tall, steep, and solid. Unfortunately the 2nd day a heat wave came in and climbing past 11 am was impossible. But the first day and 2nd morning we got our fill of good, steep climbing. I almost sent a project that was a lower extention into Tai Chi that had a rediculous cross through move into the start of TC. Very hard but I fell inches from the jug about 8 times and then decided to save it for later. Now I am back home working, training and getting ready for the next session this weekend.

Return of the sunshine

Hate Handles, mega classic.
Future Present v11 @ Barb-Wire Area
Today was the first nice day in the last 5. My friend and I camped out in a meadow in Hope Valley last night. The view was good even at night because of the fullish moon. Went bouldering today at the Barb Wire area. We did a bunch on the Future Present Boulder but it was a bit warm for climbing hard. My buddy left for Jackson so I moved on to the Hate Handles area for a quick circuit. I tried the sharp project but it was a no go. The snow level at Hate Handles and Barb Wire area is down to zero. I'm psyched to see some of the newer areas in Nevada ; particularly the Lost World and Job Peak Boulder. I hear that these spots are pretty rad. I can't wait to find out.