Monday, September 14, 2009

Best of Erratica

Yesterday we went out to the main ridge of Erratica and the conditions were good. Cold, cloudy, and windy. At the Shady Grove Area our minds were opened to the vastness of this area. After frequenting the Yeti Area it was cool to be reminded that Erratica has a whole lot more to offer in every direction. I managed to put up a new line on the Easy Boulder, near Golden Wall. This new problem is a v7 called Smoke Em If you Got Em. Short but cool. I also managed to hit the previously undone crux move on the Balls of Steel project on Shade Grove Boulder. I'm going to hone my sights in on this great undone line which will probably climb solid 12 from the start. It's going to take cold temps, steel tendons and of course, balls of steel. Props to Noah for having the vision to see this line.

Brenna Fischer sending Sweet Tooth v4

I have included for fun a list of the best problems at Erratica by grade with stars and first ascentists as well as the general sector to which it is located. Any Erratica climber who wants to do the best at a certain grade should seek out these awesome gems.

Erratica's Best Problems

The Arc v0- **** F.A. Damian Estrada @ Golden Wall

Scream v0 **** F.A. Jesse @ The Scream

The Crack v0 *** F.A. Elena O. @Boob Wall

Beautiful Breasts v1 **** F.A. Jesse @ Boob Wall

Scream Right v1 **** F.A. ? @ Scream Area

Black and Green v2 *** @ Golden Wall

The Shady Lane v2*** F.A jesse @ Trophy Area

Squeeze Between the Trees v3 **** F.A Dave Nunley @ Shade Grove

Jackie's Sister v3 **** F.A. Damian Estrada @ Shade Grove

Sidepulls in Paradise v3**** F.A. Dave Nunley @ Shade Grove

Five Dollar Happy Ending v3 *** F.A. Dave Nunley @ Simply Asia

Sunset Bulge v3*** F.A. Taylor Zentner @ Boob Wall

Broken China v4 *** F.A. Jesse @ Scream Area

Adrenaline Hoedown v4 **** F.A Jay Sell @ The Hoedown

Guns and Ammo v4*** F.A. Jesse @ Swimming Hole

Eye Of The Tiger v4*** F.A. Dave Nunley @ Boob Wall

Fugiyama v5 /7 **** F.A. Noah Kaufman @ Fugiyama Area

Sweet Dreams v5** F.A. Jesse @ Shade Grove Area

Smoked Out Jumper v5*** F.A. Jesse @ Shade Grove Area

Twenty-Four Ouncer v5*** F.A. Noah Kaufman @ The Painter Area

The Geek v5*** F.A. Jay Sell @ The Geeks

As Gold As the Sky v6 **** F.A. Noah Kaufman and Brian Arnold @ Golden Wall/Shade Grove

The Trophy v6*** F.A. Jesse @ Trophy Boulder

Mind Bully v6 **** F. A. Chip @ The Nerds

Vision Quest v7 ** F.A. Jesse @ The Black Boulder

Father's Day v7 *** F.A. Don @ The Erratics

Taco Time v8 *** F.A. Noah Kaufman @ The Geeks

The Pervert v8 ** F.A Jesse @ Shade Grove

The Yeti v9 **** F.A. Noah Kaufman @ The Nerds

Global Warming v9**** F.A. Noah Kaufman @ The Painter

Bunny Grinder v9*** F.A. Noah Kaufman @ Shade Grove

Krull v9**** F.A. Brian Arnold@ Fugiyama Area

Master Blaster v9*** F.A. Jesse @ The Hoedown

Fountain of Youth v10 *** F.A Jesse @ Swimming Hole

Robot Wars v10** F.A. Jesse @ Swimming Hole

Quest For Power v10 ** F.A. Jesse @ The Black Boulder

Vicious Poodle v10 ** F..A. Noah Kaufman @ The Geeks

Element of Surpise v11 **** F.A. Jesse @ The Painter

Party Animal v13 *** F.A Jesse @ the Hoedown Boulder

Use this list as you would a guide for the best established lines at the area. If you don't feel like scrubbing go seek out one of these classics and have yourself some fun.


  1. Awesome! Great list, Jesse. Is there an updated version, now that it's 2016?

  2. Awesome! Great list, Jesse. Is there an updated version, now that it's 2016?