Tuesday, May 21, 2013

   Since I last had anything to say on this blog, life has been pretty unpredictable to say the least. Jobs, money, bills and bullshit. I've never been much into these kind of things. As a member of society you have to take part in these things in order to exist in the "real world". Despite this fact, I still can't help but being pulled back every chance I get into what I consider the real world. Mine is wondering through mountains, trees, and single cut trails. Hopping over spring creeks, using dead trees to navigate mosquito infested marsh, feeling beads of sweat run down your face. All these obstacles and discomforts dwarfed in comparison to what lies ahead. Another season, another zone, and another chance to get back to who I really am. There is a strong feeling of clarity that comes with having a passion. No matter what others tell me I need to do, I know what I need to do. Climb boulders. And that's what I've been up to....no shit!
      It's another beautiful season at my home base here in Lake Tahoe, CA. I've been really into the new stuff mostly. There's a new line I did a month ago at the Freaks that climbs the Pistachio Eater from the low start hold, same start as Brown Sugar and Endless Basement but exits PE out the other side of the cave. Another great new steep line on good volcanic. In addition, if anyone is familiar with the lone gem Foxy Lady at the top of Kingsbury Grade. I did a new line next to it. It sits starts the right arete of Foxy from a crossly left hand sidepull crimp and right hand in the slopey hueco next to it. From there it powers up the arete with resistant compression and finishes at the apex with a not so graceful mantle. Super fun addition. I named it Little Wing to stay in the Hendrix theme. It's about v10 or so. I made a bunch of efforts to try and repeat the South Bliss classic Vaporized but got shut down cold by one move on the rig that has a heel hook which is a bit far for my short legs. Then it got hot so I said F--It! Gonna need some cold weather for that one. Props to Joel and Kyle for putting up such a gem.
     Backpack bouldering is my main focus this season. After you find that the general motion of project hunting and trying to tick problems begins to feel a bit routine, they say you're supposed to mix it up. Usually boulderers go sport climb and vice versa. I've chosen this option. It's still bouldering. The backpacking adds an element of adventure and makes the lifestyle feel more raw. The experience of hiking out beyond the typical approach distance while carrying everything you need to survive for days takes you to places you thought you'd never go. You're just an insignificant speck of life in the backcountry and yet you're home. You get very in tune with your surroundings. The trees provide the shade that cools you, the water from the nearby creek is how you make coffee in the morning, the dead fall on the ground is going to fuel the grill for cooking your food. Bouldering and nature go together so well. This way of climbing provides the ultimate feeling of immersion. The existance out there is so natural but feels anything but ordinary. It's rad.
                                          Headlock v9 , way out there
                                          temporary housing


  1. I'm always inspired by your adventures jesse. super stoked youre venturing deep into the tahoe woods! I made a video of some backpack bouldering near warren lake and was wondering if you knew of any specifics of what has/hasnt been developed. anyways, if you get some free time feel free to check it out and keep up the good work!

  2. Nice Jesse. Real is what we make it!

  3. Jesse, is your beta for Vaporized much different than Joel or Kyles? Ive never seen the boulder in person but my tall friend told me he could barely span the starting holds. As a shorter climber, around 5'6", I wasn't sure if it would be worth checking out, but if you can climb it it gives me hope. Should I get after it? Is it doable?