Monday, June 18, 2012

Everyone hits a point on an epic project where expectations fade away. Even frustration becomes rather boring. You stop caring about the end result and realize that maybe you just picked this project because you like it so much. It took me a long time to get there on Steakhouse. The other day I went up there completely alone. I did the 35 minute hike with two pads, a camera and all of my gear. The first three tries went as they always do, falling off the last move just barely. Then I decided to work out some more micro beta on the last move and found a small foot adjustment that seemed to make quite a difference. At this point it was getting late and I was a bit tired. Since it wasn't yet dark I decided to give it one more for the road. And, after an estimated 20 days of effort and 78 falls on the last move in the link I finally got it right and sent the bastard. I was so excited that I just could not stop laughing and could not believe it. This could have been the most epic project that I've ever had that far from home. They say that life is a series of moments, and that was one moment that I will never forget. I took a raw shot of the send for my own personal use. I want to be able to go back and watch it when I'm 70 and smile. That was a feeling that I will take to the grave.
   There is usually a lesson to be learned with a big project. Most of the time people are afraid to open up a can of worms with one rock climb. And maybe they are right in doing this, I dare say I don't recommend it in one sense. But then again, testing your tenacity is a great tool for finding out what you are made of. If I only did things that were easy for me and fit my body/style, I honestly never would have progressed as a climber or a person. But when you stick out a challenge to the bitter end, now matter how rediculous it feels, well, let's just say that you get what you pay for. I've heard this described by a great man as "a war of attrition". You win because you refuse to give up. A bouldering or route project can beat you a thousand times, but you only have to win once. And honestly, those things can't elude you forever. Eventually you relax, muscle memory will take over and the inevitable happens. What a great feeling this is. So I suppose, in a way, I do recommend this. Go out there and find something you "can't do" and attack it. You might just surprise yourself.


  1. Nice send man! Imspiring post. Always good to step back and see things big picture once in a while.

  2. Great post Jesse, super inspiring. Are you going to post video?

    1. When I get back there will be video. I was going to film it properly for a more artistic edit. But I may do a separate video as well of the raw footage. The reaction of the send is a bit crazy but people seem to find it quite entertaining. It won't be for a while though. I'm glad you guys enjoyed this post.

  3. Hells yeah Jessie, Steakhouse is mega! Great determination! I've fallen on that last move, it's a heartbreaker for sure.