Friday, August 21, 2009

Afternoon Delight

This week Tahoe's heat got turned up in more ways than one when climbers focused on new areas and new climbs. Jay and Frank have been hard at work developing the Ghosts while Noah and I have paid a few visits to Dave Goodwin's Crater Lake boulder. The Crater Lake boulder is incredible. This lone boulder sits in a beautiful meadow and comes complete with excellent rock and many 5 star lines of all grades.
At the Ghosts I got to see some new highballs go down. Many repeats were done on Lucido's awesome photo-op climb called Spectre(aka ghost shark). Jay Sell added a line next to it called Shark Bite, also very good. Noah did the F.A. of a line that hasn't been named yet that is very good vertical climb that probably goes at v6/7. I even got some action when I added the no star anti-gem dubbed Don't Wake Your Neighbors v?. This is now the safest and lamest line on the Moby Dick Boulder....sorry about that ..haha. More fun was had during sunset when Noah and I repeated Jay Sell's problem Ghost Dreamer. This is an awesome line that will one day top out as a world class ultra-highball. The consensus on this grade has settled at v6. It is easier if you are tall and harder if you're short but doable for everyone. A new project was opened to the left of this line that will likely be pretty hard but very awesome. The Ghosts are slowly shaping up to be a great area with lots of potential.
There was no shortage of action at Crater Lake as a bunch of us when to check it out and were blown away at how cool this rock is. Very smooth and inspiring with plenty of slopey top outs, rad holds, and great problems. I managed to get the possible first ascent Milk Money, a really stout v11/v12. This line was really cool and hard and is probably one of the best hard problems in south lake tahoe. But it didn't stop there because Noah did a likely first ascent of a super good line up the middle of the face with big moves on cool holds which is being called Lactose Intolerant v8. More news will probably come later because Noah almost linked this climb from a full sit-start which may end up being another great v10/11 on this boulder. Noah fought hard every move, getting narrowly shut-down at the very last hard move on the problem, but I assure he will be back for victory later on. To anyone who hasn't seen this rock, make calls, get beta , and go get some; it is really cool. Thanks to Dave Goodwin and company for authoring this picturesque masterpiece.


working Milk Money on day 1
photo: Brenna Fischer
Noah making the 2nd ascent of Ghost Dreamer look easy

Frank Lucido running a lap on the beautiful Spectre


Noah on F.A. of Lactose Intolerant




David O. getting some at Crater Lake
photo: Brenna Fischer


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